#USING ARDUINO PRO MINI DRIVER#
#USING ARDUINO PRO MINI SERIES#

Sandisk or Nokia Micro SD card 256mb-512mb When using non-switched battery holders, I add Amass XT30U Bullet Connectors between the holder and the logger. The logger works with battery packs holding 3 to 8 AA batteries (with the default MIC5205 regulator). I found the best results by removing the bottom 3 resistors, and then using the Arduino’s internal pull-ups on mosi & miso.

#USING ARDUINO PRO MINI DRIVER#

Some ship with CR2032 batteries which will pop if you don’t disable the charging circuit! Also the DS3231N or DS3231SN chips are much better with ± 2-3ppm error, The DS3231M is a very different chip with ± 5ppm, so buy a small number from each vendor until you find out which chips they put on the module.īe sure to buy the ones with four ‘separate’ pull-up resistors! The second resistor from the bottom of these boards needs to be removed because it is pulling up the SCK pin, which with our SD driver needs to rest low because the SD card libs uses mode 0. Or if you have a board with unusual dimensions, you could fabricate a custom screw terminal shield from scratch.ĭS3231 IIC RTC with 4K AT24C32 EEprom (zs-042) That kind of bait-n-switch tactic is very common with dodgy eBay suppliers. Note that bad vendors show photos of the pre-assembled boards in their listing, but then ship you the no-name assemble-it-yourself part kit.

Note: To save time, you can spend an extra $1 for pre-assembled boards by Deek Robot, Keyes, & Gravitech. I always get the ones with A6 & A7 broken out at the back edge of the board. In return for that time you get all the pins broken out, making this approach almost as flexible as a breadboard, and much more physically robust. Pop them into some pre-made boxes and these little guys qualify as deploy-able for relatively stable environments (though I wouldn’t use those pre-made boxes outside unless I could pot everything inside that housing with paraffin wax) This requires a reasonable amount of soldering, and after some practice, between 2-3 hours to finish depending on how many “extras” you embed into the basic three component core. To address this I’ve come up with a new configuration that uses a screw-terminal expansion shield originally intended for the Nano. I’ve lost SD cards from this half way through a long term test, and I’ve also run into issues with noise & resistance from those tiny breadboard contacts. I can whip up a breadboard combo in about twenty minutes, but they stop working if I bump one of the wires loose. If you need a logger with a rugged waterproof housing, it’s still hard to beat the crimped-jumpers build released in 2016. However sometimes I just want a quick bare-bones unit for bookshelf test runs while I shake down a new sensor. If the stacking shown in this tutorial looks a bit too complicated for your skill level, take a look at the EDU version from 2019where all the parts are flattened out into a pre-made box.

#USING ARDUINO PRO MINI SERIES#

This configuration sleeps at 0.20 mA or less if you use an Arduino with an MCP1700 series regulator, so a 4xAA battery pack like the one shown should be good for more than a year. This is a build variation of the basic 3-Module logger described in the Cave Pearl Data Logger paper at Sensors.

Using arduino pro mini